The crazy story of a favorite image + my mind

October 30, 2016 1 min read

The crazy story of a favorite image + my mind

I was on a solo photo/surf trip in Peniche, Portugal, in 2012. I had just returned from a trip to Costa Rica, in which it rained for 10 straight days, 24 hours a day. The rivers overflowed into the ocean and there were muddy waves with crocodiles.

It was my first morning that I woke up in Portugal to go surfing. It was probably 50 degrees and raining lightly. Immediately my mind went to Costa Rica and the less than successful trip. This opened up the gates to negative thoughts and how Portugal was going to be a repeat.

As soon as the thoughts started, I saw 3 surfers emerging from the fog. I threw everything I was carrying and started shooting pics. The only camera I had with me was a $75 film camera, that I wasn't worried about getting stolen at the beach. The film registered the fog as purple and one of my favorite images was created.

In the process of creating this image I awoke. The world was telling me to "shut the fuck up and enjoy." I was in Portugal for 2 weeks with my camera, a few favorite books, music and a journal. This moment changed the trip and reminds me to be in the beauty of the moment.